Junior Professor "Fashion Heritage. Fashion, culture, heritage and society" (GALAXIE reference: 4795).

Application deadline: 5 May 2023 at 4pm (Paris time)
Category to which the teacher is destined for tenure: University Professor
Anticipated project duration: 5 years
Keywords: Fashion, culture, heritage and society
Research Focus: historical, theoretical and heritage approaches to fashion

Institutionnal strategy:
The University Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne is actively engaged in the "European studies" theme of Una Europa, its European association. As a shared objective among all 9 partners of the European alliance, this theme is intended to serve as a catalyst for the establishment of joint European degrees based on transnational European research. Additionally, Paris 1 was the initiator in creating the GIS EuroLab, which has been housed, at the Projects and Prospective Department of the University Paris 1 since its creation in January 2022. The objective of EuroLab, which brings together 26 institutions in France, is to federate and highlight research produced in France on the transdisciplinary subject of Europe, in line with the LabEx ENHE, of which the SIRICE research unit (Sorbonne, Identities, International Relations, European Civilizations) has been a member since its foundation. The proposed Chair is part of the institution’s overall strategy, outlined in its Strategic Plan (October 2021) and the SorbRising Project (PIA4), which has already yielded positive results (Una Europa, LabEx ENHE, EuroLab). It relies on a long-standing and recognized expertise in history, law, social sciences or political sciences, both in France and internationally.

Strategy of the host research center:
The HiCSA (Cultural and Social History of Art Research Unit) is a research center that brings together around forty tenured researchers focused on visual studies, heritage policies and creative circulations on a globalized scale. In the last four years, this team has produced more than two hundred scientific articles and a hundred monographs and edited works, as well as a hundred study days and international conferences, as reported in the latest HCERES report. Its three lines of research, at the crossroads of social and cultural history, visual anthropology and art economics, are supported by a photography chair, a cultural history of cinema team, a "heritage and museums" group, led by one of the leading international experts in this field, in close connection with the Cultural Heritage program of the Una Europa consortium, and a series of research programs on the geopolitics of globalization and postcolonial studies (Africa, Middle East, Latin America).
The HiCSA wishes to expand its research by adding a new "fashion" axis to its five-year program for 2025-2029. From a strategic point of view, this axis will contribute to increasing the international attractiveness of the Center by positioning it at the forefront of research on questions related to the history and practices of fashion. The research center’s location in the quadrilateral of the INHA provides it with privileged access to research resources, as well as to the In Visu laboratory associated with our doctoral school (ED 441). A cohort of two hundred doctoral students associated with this laboratory has come together, for four years, under the unifying label of the doctoral association SARTORIA to study fashion through the prism of cultural history and social of art. This group, which is only waiting to grow at a time of increasing interest in heritage departments within Parisian fashion houses, the success of fashion exhibitions in museums, and in the growing urgency of ethical and eco-responsible reflections within a globalized fashion industry, is waiting for a referent professor, to lead the new FASHION HERITAGE axis within the laboratory.

Scientific Project:
The FASHION HERITAGE Chair (Fashion Studies/Culture Heritage) is part of an unstructured academic field in France, at the intersection of cultural and social history of clothing, costume and appearances, and the studies of heritage policies, to which it wishes to give a new impetus by relying on current methodological renewals in the human and social sciences. Its objective is to offer the tools for analyzing fashion creation, its actors and its distribution circuits, from sustainable development to heritage conservation. The goal of this chair is to analyze fashion as a connected and globalized phenomenon, and to cover the entire creation/production/consumption/preservation cycle. How to integrate ethical and environmental issues into fashion conservation and distribution policies? How to take into account the ecology of creation in fashion heritage strategies? The FASHION HERITAGE scientific project aims to become a benchmark university platform in France, interacting with a national (IFM, EHESS, Ecole du Louvre, University of Lyon II) and international (Universities of Cambridge, Warwick, Ghent, London, Stockholm, Columbia, as well as the eleven partners of UNA EUROPA) network, around Fashion Studies, reassessed here in light of two main priorities: the reflexive and historiographical analysis of fashion (historical perspectives and contemporary issues); and the study of heritage policies within a connected and globalized history of fashion. To carry out this program and its network research dynamic, the chair will be responsible for setting up an ERC project. The CPJ program includes the organization of scientific events to consolidate the international network around a Fashion Research Network and to energize the national network of heritage institutions (Galliera, MUCEM, MAD, Lyon Textile Museum).

Teaching Project:
The teaching program of the chair (96 annual HETDs) will focus on two main areas:

1° A “new history of fashion”, crossing material and social approaches, visual cultures, gender studies and critical approaches to historiography.

2° A seminar crossing Heritage Studies and Global Fashion History, addressing more specifically the connected histories of fashion (heritage policies, circulation ethics, cultural appropriation) and curatorial strategies.

At the master’s level, these two axes will be developed through shared M1/M2 seminars in partnership with the IFM. Currently, the art history department produces, annually, 6 to 7 master's theses devoted to the creative and heritage aspects of fashion, as well as a cohort of six doctoral students integrated into the “Theory and practices of fashion” doctoral course. This demand is growing and contributes significantly to the international appeal of our institution. As part of the five-year training project in art history, there will a reflection on the integration of this fashion program into the bachelor / master / doctoral curriculum. Additionally, a multidisciplinary doctoral seminar will be launched, in collaboration with the IFM, and incorporated into the educational offering of the "doctoral course".

Amount of associated funding:
In addition to the CPJ salary, an allocation of 200,000 euros for the program will allow the financing of half a Post-Doc position over the period, and the financing of CPJ's research / network creation missions, as well as support for various events, with funding for an ambitious publication program on the renewal in the historiography of fashion (a collaboration is already open with the Editions de la Sorbonne).

Applicant Requirements:
The recruited person must have defended a doctoral thesis. The recruited should be able to teach indifferently in French and in English.
Content of the application:

Applicants must provide :
- the application form drawn up according to the ministerial model and containing the candidate's scientific and pedagogical project in relation to the Chair
- an identity document
- a copy of the PhD diploma
- the thesis defense report (or a certificate from the university indicating that the defense report has not been delivered)
- a copy of the most significant works

The research project must be explicitly linked to one of the scientific themes of the Chair.

Organization of the auditions:
Only candidates who have been selected by the selection committee will be invited to an audition.
The interview with the members of the committee will be in French and English.
The audition of the candidates will include a professional situation which will take the form of a public seminar in French, conducted following the presentation of the project.

Scientific dissemination:
- articles in peer-reviewed journals, in English and French
- publication of a special issue of the journal Histo.art of the Doctoral
School of Art History of Paris 1 (ED 441) in 2024/25
- papers at international conferences
- conferences for the general public, in the network of museum partners of the project
- creation of a digital platform (research notebook), dedicated to exchanges with international partners and open access publication (conference proceedings, tickets, reports, etc.)

Open Science:
To promote the dissemination of research data, open access, particularly involving open source digital tools and full open access publication platforms, will be favored. To support this approach, the budget will include eligible costs for open access upstream. Beforehand, a reflection will be carried out on the relationships between publication publishers and the OAPEN library (Open Access Publishing in European Networks). Additionally, The HAL system (a multidisciplinary open archives) will be utilized for this purpose.

Research and Society:
A dual scientific and educational partnership, bringing together the IFM and the INHA, along with strategic collaborations with museums (Galliera, Musée des Arts Décoratifs, MUCEM) and private foundations (Saint Laurent, Chanel, Balenciaga, etc.) will allow the development of platforms to showcase this research, especially during significant annual events (Fashion Weeks, European Heritage Days, etc.). The CPJ will oversee the establishment of the connections with the Ministry of Culture’s services to explore broader, global initiatives.

Learn more about CPJs : https://www.galaxie.enseignementsup-recherche.gouv.fr/ensup/cand_CPJ.htm

Apply on the "Galaxie" site : https://galaxie.enseignementsup-recherche.gouv.fr/antares/can/astree/index.jsp

Full job description : http://p1ps.fr/CPJ-Fashion-heritage